I have checked Caprisports website but some information just isn't there. I have been trying to sort out a kit to install the GT260 front brakes on my US spec 76 Capri.
Brakes: The easy part. Known as the Sierra XR4i by the UK the Merkur XR4Ti is still pretty plentiful here. Getting the calipers and the brackets are cake.
Booster: here's an example of what the US Capri have
http://capriclub.com/images/classicford/2007/11/71m.jpg
It's got the vacuum port at the 2 o'clock position but I don't think this a larger servo. Trouble is Capris here did not come with 2 types of servos. From 70-78 they were all the same.
Master cylinder:
Does using the gt260 front brakes require the use of a proportioning valve?
My plan is to keep the V6 rear drums for now. Would the Granada booster with the larger 23.8 bore suit the task? My understanding is the rover 25mm bore is only needed if fitting rear discs. Do I need a larger proportioning valve no matter what?
Modifying hubs: As the caprisport website shows it's pretty easy to do. However, one point is not specified. how much is the wheel location lip increased? I would assume it's exactly the thickness of the rotor, but I'd like to be sure.
The trouble with doing a brake conversion like this is the shipping. The brackets themselves are inexpensive to ship, but if I had to ship a servo...Suffice it to say I'll be trying this upgrade with the stock fitted servo, even if it's not large enough by Caprisport standards.
GTR 260 kit questions
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Looks like you have the correct servo - check the master cylinder nuts -
should be 17mm.
Your not improving the rear in any way so why would you need to reduce the pressure?
So obviously, a valve is not required.
You will need the larger master cylinder - try it but I'd put money on you having more pedal travel than you'd like.
The wheel location is extended by about the 8mm of disc.
Caprisport now make trick alloy grease caps so you don't need to do that.
Have to say, whilst you're doing the other mods, you might as well do it.
should be 17mm.
Your not improving the rear in any way so why would you need to reduce the pressure?
So obviously, a valve is not required.
You will need the larger master cylinder - try it but I'd put money on you having more pedal travel than you'd like.
The wheel location is extended by about the 8mm of disc.
Caprisport now make trick alloy grease caps so you don't need to do that.
Have to say, whilst you're doing the other mods, you might as well do it.
![Image](http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p105/caprisport/sig3.jpg)
Just some of what we do
The nuts are 13mm. I think the studs are 10MM. I'm concened that the stud distance is the same as the Rover Master. The USA Capris use the common ATE Master. Is that the same footprint as the Rover?csr wrote:Looks like you have the correct servo - check the master cylinder nuts -
should be 17mm.
OK. I thought by the added bore size 22 to 25mm a bias valve would be needed.csr wrote:Your not improving the rear in any way so why would you need to reduce the pressure?
So obviously, a valve is not required.
I'd prefer to go with what Caprisport recommends. It makes sense. Was checking to see if the 25mm was necessary for the 260kit. Seems to me it is by your response.csr wrote:You will need the larger master cylinder - try it but I'd put money on you having more pedal travel than you'd like.
Not machining the hub would push the wheel out that 8mm with the wheels I'm running it would probably cause the tire to rub. So the hub needs to be machined for the thickness of the disc? Great....csr wrote:The wheel location is extended by about the 8mm of disc.
Caprisport now make trick alloy grease caps so you don't need to do that.
Have to say, whilst you're doing the other mods, you might as well do it.