Suspension setup...?
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tiedanggong
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Suspension setup...?
I've stripped down the front and rear suspension setup on my 2.8i and rather than drop her an inch, i'm wanting to stiffen up the suspension. I'm on track to get a poly bush kit allround, a rear axle location kit and it's already got single leaf springs on rear. What's the best spring Ib to use on the front if i'm wanting it stiffer for hard road use...?i'm getting some roller top mounts for the front to compensate for stiffer springs on harsh turns...is there anything else to think of rear-end wise apart from a watts linkage or 4/5 link system which is out of my time and money bracket! I know making the rear softer and the front harder improves sideways action and relative grip but is it worth tweaking the rears further?
There are lots of different oppinions on this subject most of which will be formulated in the pub by people who have never had a Capri round a track.
This is what works -
Front springs - as stiff as you can stand - 220lb is a hard as you can get on stock platforms. After that it's coilovers. 220 less 2" will do
Front dampers - original 2.8 will do - go to top adjustable inserts in base model legs to get better results.
Front arb from the 2.8 and poly bush the lot. Forget mickey mouse rubbish like anti dive kits.
Rear springs - stock 2.8 as long as in good order - fit 1" lowering blocks.
Rear dampers - adjustables - Spax - AVO - Koni - set on no 2 or 3
Rear axle triangulation kit - home made or Caprisport - avoid the single U bolt rubish and poly bush the lot. You could take the arb off the back and not notice. It's useful for the little anti-tramp it gives.
You need the brakes to work well to get some real enjoyment but that should get you going in the right direction.
The secret to making a Capri handle is to get the front stiff as you can because that's where the weight is.
Leave the back a bit compliant or the inner wheel will lift.
Get it very "Kart like" and you there.
Choose tyres wisely too - soft compounds that let go gently and predictably are what you need. Cheap tyres that hang on longer then let go without too much warning are most dangerous.
With all the right bits and set up well, you can drive a Capri harder in the wet than most people would dare in the dry.
This is what works -
Front springs - as stiff as you can stand - 220lb is a hard as you can get on stock platforms. After that it's coilovers. 220 less 2" will do
Front dampers - original 2.8 will do - go to top adjustable inserts in base model legs to get better results.
Front arb from the 2.8 and poly bush the lot. Forget mickey mouse rubbish like anti dive kits.
Rear springs - stock 2.8 as long as in good order - fit 1" lowering blocks.
Rear dampers - adjustables - Spax - AVO - Koni - set on no 2 or 3
Rear axle triangulation kit - home made or Caprisport - avoid the single U bolt rubish and poly bush the lot. You could take the arb off the back and not notice. It's useful for the little anti-tramp it gives.
You need the brakes to work well to get some real enjoyment but that should get you going in the right direction.
The secret to making a Capri handle is to get the front stiff as you can because that's where the weight is.
Leave the back a bit compliant or the inner wheel will lift.
Get it very "Kart like" and you there.
Choose tyres wisely too - soft compounds that let go gently and predictably are what you need. Cheap tyres that hang on longer then let go without too much warning are most dangerous.
With all the right bits and set up well, you can drive a Capri harder in the wet than most people would dare in the dry.
Just some of what we do