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Car Wont Start Well When Warm And Runs Lumpy When Warm

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:42 pm
by freelandingman
hello everyone,im new here,i have a 2.8 special and it starts fine when its cols and idles fine when its cold,but once its warmed up the idle goes down to about 500rpm and if i try and start it when its warm it takes about 30 seconds,does anyone on here have any ideas,

cheers

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 12:57 pm
by Coops
im not that clued up on the 2.8 i must admit,

have you checked the air filter?
could be the thermotime switch playing up,
coolant sensor faulty (it's different to temp gauge sensor)
but someone who is more clued up on the 2.8 layout will hopefully be along to assist shortly

Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:57 pm
by bortaf
disconect the cold start valve it may be dribblin or staying open?

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 10:44 am
by mfw898y
Have to agree with bortaf. Had same on xr4x4 and it turn out to be cold start.

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:19 pm
by freelandingman
bortaf wrote:disconect the cold start valve it may be dribblin or staying open?
which bit is the cold start valve,should i just unplug the electrics or is there something else,should i do this when its warm or cold

cheers

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:43 pm
by mfw898y
According to Mr Haynes (and asuming its the same engine as early xr4x4's) there are two things that i would look for.

1: Warm up regulator which is a bi metal strip, like a choke on a carb and regulates fuel/air mix as engine warms up. This is located at front of engine next to cooling system outlet elbow.

2: Fuel start valve which sprays extra fuel at startup and is located on right hand side of air chamber.

Removal/Refit of these bits is stright forward...just remeber to dump the pressure in the fuel rail or you'll get soaked in petrol when you take it apart.

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:14 pm
by freelandingman
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... &rd=1&rd=1

i just bought that is that the correct bit

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:51 pm
by mfw898y
Not sure...it says its for a cologne which is the 2.9. The essex was the 2.8.

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:16 pm
by Coops
wrong:
the essex was the 3.0
the cologne was the 2.8

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:16 pm
by mfw898y
Sorry. :oops:

Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:19 pm
by Coops
don't be sorry mate, 8)

Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2007 8:41 pm
by spookie
Another area to look at is the valve clearances. The symptoms you give are similar to valve seat recession. Are the heads converted for unleaded? if not give the clearances a check.

Posted: Sat Feb 17, 2007 7:13 pm
by freelandingman
ok i replaced evrything on the plenum and the warm up regulator,so i though it could be due to fuel pressure and it getting vapour lock wheni turn the car off when its warm,so i took the metering head off and when i unconected it there was no pressure in the fuel line,i put a different one on and started the car and it started ok and now there is pressure in the fuel lines,
now my problem is with this new metering head when try to rev it it wont rev but if i put my hand in the air flow meter and move it as im reving the throttle it does rev,now before i fitted it the air flow flap moved freely no problem but now its fitted its gone stiffer,

can anyone help me , do i have two broken metering heads maby,

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 9:50 pm
by freelandingman
so far with it when i start the car up i can rev it straight away but once the pressure has built up after a few seconds it wont rev,

i tried changing the warm up regulator and that did nothing,

im guessing that for some reason im getting too much pressure and thats why the plunger stiffens up,i think i read somewhere that the fuel pressure does effect how the plunger works

Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:07 pm
by Coops
isn't the fuel pressure controlled by the fuel accumulator located on the passengers side at the rear?